The fire is the most important part. A khorovats cook lights a wood fire well in advance and waits patiently for the flames to die down to red-hot coals. Only then does the meat go on. Slow embers cook better than fierce flames - the meat stays juicy and the outside crisps gently.
The skewers (called 'shampoor') are long flat metal sticks. Onto them go cubes of marinated meat, slices of onion, and whole vegetables - peppers, tomatoes and aubergines, which char on the outside and turn soft inside. Once cooked, the vegetables are mashed together with herbs to make a smoky dip.
Khorovats is eaten with warm lavash bread, fresh herbs (parsley, coriander, basil, dill) and a sharp white cheese called chanakh. You wrap everything together in the bread like a Mexican burrito and eat it with your hands. Pomegranate seeds are sometimes sprinkled on top for sweetness.
Most importantly, khorovats is shared. Friends and family arrive in the early afternoon. The cook tends the fire. Everyone helps with side dishes. Children play in the garden. The meal goes on for hours - by the time everyone is finished, the fire has burned down to ash and the sun is going down.