The pastry on top of knafeh is called kataifi - a fine, thread-like shredded dough that looks a bit like pale golden noodles. It is pressed into a round tray, layered with the fresh, mild white cheese called Nabulsi cheese, and baked until the top turns a deep amber colour. The moment it comes out of the oven, hot sugar syrup is poured over the whole tray and it sizzles and steams.
Nabulsi cheese is made specially for knafeh - it is mild, slightly salty, and melts into a stretchy layer when warm. When you cut a piece and lift it, the cheese pulls into long, satisfying strings. The contrast between the crunchy pastry and the gooey cheese is what makes knafeh so extraordinary.
In Nablus, knafeh is serious business. The city has huge knafeh shops with trays as wide as a dining table. Vendors serve it on small plates with a piece of plain bread alongside - the bread helps balance the sweetness. Early mornings are the best time to find it, still piping hot and fresh from the oven. Families treat a trip to the knafeh shop as a celebration.