The path starts near the village of Owers' Corner, close to the capital Port Moresby, and ends at the village of Kokoda on the other side of the mountains. In between are huge rivers, slippery clay slopes, jungle so thick it blocks the sun, and clouds that drift along at head height. Many walkers describe it as the hardest week of their lives - and also one of the most beautiful.
The track passes through small villages, each with its own language. Walkers stay overnight in village guesthouses, share meals of kaukau and greens, and learn a few words of the local tok ples. Children in the villages often run circles around the visitors, who are puffing along carrying big backpacks.
PNG porters - skilled walkers who carry packs and help guide groups - are the heart of every Kokoda trip. Many come from the villages along the way. They know every rock, every shortcut, and which leaves keep mosquitoes off. People who have walked the track often talk about their porters with huge respect.
The Kokoda Track is also a place to learn about nature. Birds of paradise call from the trees. Tree kangaroos rest in the high branches. Long-nosed bandicoots scurry across the path. Walking it teaches you that a mountain isn't one thing - it's a thousand different worlds stacked on top of each other.