The fish used in calulu is usually dried or smoked before being added to the stew. Drying and smoking are traditional ways of preserving fish so they last longer in a hot, humid climate. The smoking process also adds a deep, distinctive flavour that is very important to the final taste of the dish.
Palm oil gives calulu its rich orange colour and a nutty, earthy flavour. Palm trees grow all across São Tomé and Príncipe, and the oil made from their fruit has been used in cooking here for centuries. It is full of flavour and turns the whole stew a beautiful golden orange.
Calulu is usually served with 'banana pão' - bread banana - or rice. It is the kind of hearty, warming dish that people eat together in large groups, often at celebrations and family gatherings. The smell of calulu cooking is one of those aromas that islanders always associate with home.
Every region of São Tomé and Príncipe has its own version of calulu, with slight differences in which greens are used or how the fish is prepared. Asking a local cook which version is best is a sure way to start a cheerful and lively debate.